Sunday, January 21, 2018

A Hat Tutorial

Happy Sunday,
I am quite enamoured with the soft puffed crown hats favoured between 1800-1805.  In reviewing the evolution of the style over a number of years, it is appears to be a smaller version of the wide brimmed Lunardi or "Balloon" hat that was all the rage, following the inaugural balloon ascent of Vincenzo Lunardi, in 1783.   After searching the internet for a pattern, to no avail, I determined to make my own version.  I used a brown velvet remnant purchased  from Daisy Kingdom umpteen years ago.  The lining is period reproduction fabric from a quilt shop The Pine Needle.  I used this same fabric to make a spencer back in 2012.  Completed in 2013, this particular chapeau was meant to go with my Kyoto redingote.  I based my version on the fashion plate below (Courtesy of Ebay). 

Make hat band to fit. Lining, Fashion fabric, and interlining if desired.
Step 2, Optional: add piping
Step 3, Prepare Brim. Two parts fashion fabric, interlining (crinoline or buckram).  Wire Interlining.  If adding piped Trim, only to fashion fabric.
Step 4, Test sizing.  Bast to stabilize.
Step 5, Prepare Crown. Fashion Fabric and interlining (crinoline).
Step 6. Add hat band to crown lining.
Step 7a, add brim to Band.  Test for fit.
Step 7b, add crown to hat brim.  Test for Fit.

Step 8, add lining.
Completed interior
Side, shape brim as desired
Front, shape brim as desired.
Trim. Four sided bows, with button and satin ties.
Edit: Brim is 2 inches, not counting seam allowance. I used a renaissance flat cap as a base. It can really be suited to your taste. The crown is adapted from a modern beret, approximately 15 inches across (without seam allowance). Depending on your head size, adjust as necessary. If you want an earlier impression, use the beret from La Mode Bagetelle and as deep a brim as desired. The crinoline interlining gives the crown some foundation, so the pouf does not collapse. You may wish to double layer the interlining. After 1805, the crown becomes more rigid, like a half ball shape.

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